Perfume Notes Explained

Perfumers structure fragrances in layers: bright top notes introduce the scent, heart notes carry the theme, and base notes provide depth and longevity. Learning how these tiers interact helps you read and appreciate any fragrance pyramid.

Quick Facts
Top notesLightest molecules; first 5–15 minutes
Heart notesDefine the accord from 15 minutes to 4 hours
Base notesHeavy fixatives lasting 6+ hours
AccordsBlends of notes that create a unified impression
DevelopmentScent changes as lighter molecules evaporate

Top Notes

Top notes are light, volatile molecules—often citrus, herbal, or aldehydic materials—that evaporate quickly. They create the immediate impression but typically fade within 10–15 minutes (Sell, 2014). Their job is to introduce a theme and pave the way for the heart notes.

Heart (Middle) Notes

Heart notes emerge as the top dissipates, showcasing florals, spices, and fruits that define the fragrance character. They last two to four hours and bridge the freshness of the opening with the depth of the base (Butler, 2000).

Base Notes and Fixatives

Base notes—woods, musks, resins, ambers—are heavier molecules that persist six hours or more. They anchor the composition, add warmth, and act as fixatives that slow evaporation of the entire pyramid (Sell, 2014).

Accords and Modern Variations

Many contemporary fragrances blur the pyramid by constructing linear accords—blends of notes that present a single unified impression from start to finish. Others use layering techniques to emphasize certain facets at different stages (Pybus & Sell, 1999). Understanding the pyramid helps explain why your perception shifts even when the accord feels cohesive.

References
  1. Sell, C. S. (2014). The Chemistry of Fragrances (2nd ed.). Royal Society of Chemistry.
  2. Pybus, D. H., & Sell, C. S. (1999). The Chemistry of Fragrances: From Perfumer to Consumer. Royal Society of Chemistry.
  3. Butler, H. (Ed.). (2000). Poucher’s Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps (11th ed.). Kluwer Academic.