Perfume Glossary
Essential terms and definitions for understanding the art and science of perfumery
Absolute
A highly concentrated aromatic extract obtained via solvent extraction; contains waxes and aromatic molecules and is further processed with ethanol to yield a perfumery absolute.
Accord
A deliberate blend of aroma materials that together create a unified olfactory idea distinct from the individual components.
Aldehydes
A class of organic compounds used to introduce sparkling or fatty effects; famous C9–C13 aliphatic aldehydes give Chanel No. 5 its lift.
Ambergris
Oxidised whale secretion historically used as a fixative; now mostly replaced by ambroxide analogues due to legal and ethical restrictions.
Anosmia
Partial or complete loss of smell; can be specific to certain molecules (specific anosmia) or total (general anosmia).
Aquatic
Modern fragrance style evoking water/marine freshness using materials like calone.
Base Notes
The slowest-evaporating portion of a perfume composed of heavy molecules (woods, musks, resins) that persist for six hours or more.
Bergamot
Citrus bergamia peel oil cold-pressed mainly in Calabria; prized for its balanced citrus-floral profile and used in chypres and colognes.
Chypre
Fragrance family built around bergamot, labdanum, oakmoss, and patchouli, named after Coty’s Chypre (1917).
Civet
Animalic tone historically obtained from civet cats; modern perfumery relies on synthetic civetone or related molecules.
Distillation
Separation process—often steam-based—used to obtain essential oils by vaporising and condensing volatile components.
Dry Down
Late phase of a perfume when the heart subsides and base notes dominate on skin.
Eau de Cologne
Light fragrance strength (~2–5% oil). Historically citrus-forward compositions for frequent refreshment.
Eau de Parfum
Fragrance concentration typically 15–20% aromatic compounds in alcohol; balances projection and longevity.
Eau de Toilette
Medium-light concentration (~5–15%) emphasising top and heart notes; often used for daytime wear.
Enfleurage
Traditional extraction where petals sit on fat-coated chassis to absorb fragrance; largely obsolete but used for heritage recreations.
Essential Oil
Volatile aromatic extract obtained via distillation or expression; contains only the oil-soluble components.
Esters
Compounds formed from acids and alcohols; often impart fruity, sweet, or floral tones in perfumery.
Fixative
Ingredient that reduces evaporation rate, strengthening the perfume and ensuring smoother dry down (e.g., woods, musks, resins).
Fougère
Fragrance type centred on lavender, oakmoss, coumarin, often with a citrus opening; name means ‘fern’.
Gourmand
Fragrance genre built around edible notes like vanilla, chocolate, caramel.
Heart Notes
The main character of a perfume emerging after top notes fade, typically lasting two to four hours.
Ionones
Violet-smelling molecules derived from ionone family; discovered in 1893 and enabled violet accords without natural violet absolute.
Kyphi
Ancient Egyptian incense blend combining resins, wine, honey, and botanicals; burned nightly in temples.
Maceration
Extraction process where plant material soaks in solvent (oil, alcohol) to draw out aromatic compounds.
Musk
Warm, animalic-smelling material historically from musk deer; today produced synthetically (polycyclic, macrocyclic musks).
Nose
Colloquial term for a perfumer; refers to their trained olfactory expertise.
Oud
Resinous heartwood from infected Aquilaria/Gyrinops trees; yields dark, complex oils prized in Middle Eastern perfumery.
Parfum
Highest concentration (20–40%) of aromatic compounds; applied sparingly and offers intimate projection with long wear.
Patchouli
Essential oil from Pogostemon cablin leaves; earthy, chocolaty profile used in orientals and chypres.
Projection
How far a fragrance radiates from the wearer in real time; distinct from sillage (the trailing scent).
Resinoid
Amber-like extract obtained by solvent extraction of resins (e.g., benzoin, labdanum).
Sillage
The scent trail left behind the wearer as they move; French for wake.
Soliflore
Fragrance designed to showcase a single flower impression, even if built from multiple materials.
Terpenes
Large class of organic compounds found in essential oils (e.g., limonene, pinene) contributing fresh/herbal facets.
Top Notes
Earliest impression on skin, composed of the lightest, fastest-evaporating molecules lasting roughly 5–15 minutes.
Vetiver
Earthy essential oil distilled from Vetiveria zizanoides roots; valued for depth and dryness.
Ylang-Ylang
Floral essential oil from Cananga odorata flowers with creamy, banana-like facets.