Perfume in Antiquity: Rituals, Workshops, and Trade
Fragrance in the ancient Mediterranean and Near East was inseparable from ritual practice, diplomacy, and medicine. Archaeological residue, temple inscriptions, and classical authors illuminate how incense powders, unguents, and aromatic oils were produced and consumed long before the rise of modern perfumery.
Sacred Ingredients and Ritual Use
Egyptian temple incense known as kyphi combined ingredients such as honey, wine, raisins, myrrh, frankincense, and juniper berries. Kyphi was burned at dusk in temples and used as an ointment and even a beverage; recipes are preserved on papyrus fragments and temple walls.
Phytochemical and archaeological analysis of frankincense (Boswellia sacra) and myrrh (Commiphora myrrha) shows their trade from southern Arabia into Egypt and the Levant by the second millennium BCE. Resin lumps were found in Tutankhamun's tomb and temple caches.
In Mesopotamia, cuneiform tablets from the palace at Mari and Assyria detail perfumed oils used in royal rituals and medical prescriptions. Sesame oil steeped with botanicals such as cedar and cypress formed the base of many preparations.
Workshops and Early Chemistry
Ostraca from Deir el-Medina record perfumers’ rations and the involvement of priestly workshops in producing scented oils using maceration, enfleurage, and expression techniques—distillation arrives much later.
Greek sources describe artisans like Megallus, whose megaleion ointment blended myrrh, cinnamon, and balanos oil. Theophrastus's treatise On Odours catalogued raw materials, storage vessels, and shelf-life concerns in the 3rd century BCE.
Archaeological finds at the Bronze Age industrial site of Pyrgos-Mavroraki in Cyprus include limestone presses, alembic-like apparatus, and residue signatures of coriander, lavender, and rosemary, indicating large-scale aromatic oil production around 1850 BCE.
Trade Networks and Social Meaning
Reliefs at Deir el-Bahari show Hatshepsut’s expedition to Punt transporting myrrh trees in root balls—a diplomatic gesture underscoring the political value of aromatics circa 1470 BCE.
Classical authors including Herodotus and Dioscorides describe Arabian and Indian aromatics entering the Mediterranean through ports like Gaza and Alexandria, linking Nabataean caravan routes with Greek and Roman markets.
Roman writers Pliny the Elder and Seneca criticised elite spending on perfumes, while customs registers such as the portorium Asiae reveal heavy taxation on imported nard, cinnamon, and cassia—evidence that aromatics generated significant imperial revenue.